Esquisse Design Hotel
We liked the idea behind this address as much as the rooms themselves. Esquisse sits...
Telavi sits on a terrace above the Alazani Valley, and on a clear morning the Greater Caucasus stands behind the vineyards like a wall raised overnight. Kviria opened here in 2021, on Gogebashvili Street, ten minutes on foot from the old centre. It calls itself the first smart and eco friendly boutique hotel in Kakheti, and the claim is structural rather than decorative: solar panels cover the roof, and the water comes from a spring well drilled a hundred and seventeen metres under the building. Fourteen rooms, a heated outdoor pool, a wine bar with a house label. It is a small house that behaves like a working estate, in a region where the estates usually sit well outside town.
Kakheti tempts visitors into the countryside and then charges for it in driving time. Kviria answers with a town address that still gives you the view and the wine. The balconies face the valley and the mountains beyond it. The cellar pours Matisi, the hotel own label, made in the village of Pichkhovani half an hour away, so a tasting costs you an evening rather than a designated driver. The green credentials are built in, in the roof and the well. And at fourteen rooms the house stays quiet enough that the staff can name the growers they buy from.
Gogebashvili Street runs on the town side of Telavi, close enough that the walk to Erekle II Street and the fortress takes about ten minutes and passes shopfronts rather than highway. Batonis Tsikhe, the royal residence with its palace and church inside the walls, anchors the centre, and the enormous plane tree beside it is where the town meets. From the hotel the valley road runs east into the vineyards, towards the Tsinandali estate and its garden, and towards Alaverdi cathedral standing alone in the fields. Telavi is also where the Tbilisi road and the minibus routes converge, so arriving without a car is realistic and day trips are easy.
Price: premium for Kakheti
Vibe: calm, contemporary, quietly green
Rooms: fourteen, individually designed, most with a private balcony on the valley
Best For: wine travellers without a car, couples, slow touring of Kakheti
Our Favorite Thing About the Hotel: Matisi, the house wine label, poured in the bar and made in Pichkhovani village nearby
Dining: Georgian and European cooking a la carte built on local produce, breakfast as a buffet or cooked at the table, wine bar
Amenities: heated outdoor pool with bar service, solar roof, private spring well, meeting room for thirty
Attractions: Batonis Tsikhe and the old town about ten minutes on foot, Tsinandali estate and Alaverdi cathedral within an easy drive east
The fourteen rooms are designed one by one rather than run off a template, and they take up to thirty seven guests with extra beds, which makes the house workable for families travelling together. The detail that matters is the balcony: most rooms have one, and it faces the Alazani Valley with the Caucasus behind it, which turns breakfast and the last hour of light into the reason you booked. Inside, the register is contemporary Georgian rather than rustic, with the timber and stone of the region handled plainly.
The wine bar is the centre of the evening. Matisi is made naturally in Pichkhovani, and drinking it where it is poured by the people who commission it is a different proposition from a tasting room on a tour route. The kitchen serves Georgian and European dishes a la carte, built on local produce, and breakfast arrives either as a buffet or cooked to order at the table. Outside, the heated pool has bar service, which stretches the season at both ends in a region that runs hot in summer and crisp once the harvest is in.
This is a town hotel with estate manners, not a vineyard chateau: the vines are a drive away, and the pleasure here is in coming back to a quiet street at night. The meeting room takes thirty and the kitchen handles set menus for events, so a small group can take the place over. Travellers who want Kakheti at walking pace, with the cellars, the churches and the valley reachable on day trips, are the ones who get the most out of it.
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