Mukhrantubani Boutique Hotel
We were drawn to the address before anything else. Baratashvili 23 sits on the seam...
The hill above Tbilisi's old city is sandstone, and in places the houses were built straight onto it rather than around it. Bloom is one of those houses. It dates from the eighteen seventies, and its garden is dominated by outcrops of rock larger than the building itself, with groundwater still running through them. The practical consequence is remarkable: the courtyard stays under twenty-four degrees through the hottest weeks of the Tbilisi summer, when the streets outside are heavy by mid afternoon. Everything else about the hotel follows from the decision to keep that garden rather than pave it.
Six rooms is a size that changes the nature of a stay. There is no lobby to cross, no shift handover, no anonymous corridor; the family who run the house are in it, and the help you get is the kind that comes from people who know their own city. Each room has been designed on its own terms, mixing classical proportions with rustic and shabby chic pieces and handmade details, so choosing a room here is an actual choice. For a traveller who finds the standard boutique formula tiring, this is the alternative, and it sits in the middle of the old town.
Elene Akhvlediani Rise climbs off the lanes of the old city, which puts the house within a short walk of nearly everything a first visit wants. Freedom Square and the foot of Rustaveli Avenue are a few minutes west. South and downhill lie the brick domes of Abanotubani and the sulphur baths, with the Narikala ridge above them and the Botanical Garden behind. The river and its bridges follow from there. The street itself is quiet and steep in the way old Tbilisi streets are, so a taxi will set you down close rather than at the door, and luggage is easier with a hand.
Price: Premium
Vibe: Family run, old house, handmade, green
Rooms: Six, each individually designed, all with a private bathroom
Best For: Couples, slow travellers, anyone who would rather stay in a house than a hotel
Our Favorite Thing About the Hotel: The rock garden, where groundwater runs and the air holds under twenty-four degrees in high summer
Amenities: Garden and courtyard, airport transfers, room service, individually designed interiors with handmade artwork
Attractions: Abanotubani sulphur baths, Narikala fortress, Freedom Square and Rustaveli Avenue, the Botanical Garden, the old town lanes
Because the building is a nineteenth century house rather than a purpose built hotel, the rooms follow its geometry: different shapes, different light, different proportions, each with its own bathroom. The design runs between classical and contemporary with rustic and shabby chic touches, and the handmade art pieces are the part guests tend to mention afterwards. What that means in practice is that the room you book matters more here than it would in a property of fifty, so it is worth asking which one opens onto the garden and which one catches the morning. With six keys the house fills early in spring and autumn.
The hotel describes itself as family operated, and the difference shows in the small decisions. Arrivals are handled personally, airport transfers are arranged rather than outsourced, and a request gets an answer from someone who can act on it. Room service exists, which is not a given at this size. The scale suits people who plan their own evenings and come back to somewhere quiet: with six keys there is no crowd in the garden and no queue at the door. What you get is a house in the old city, a courtyard nobody else has, and the impression of having been lent somewhere rather than sold a night.
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